2015 - August - South Downs Way

Much of the south of England is a mystery to me, so the South Downs Way seemed a good way to see if civilisation had penetrated to Sussex.  I got an evening train to Winchester.  I also realised that the next day I was staying in a hostel, which was dry and 2 miles to the nearest pub, and I would have been walking all day in what was forecast to be rain.  So nipped to Sainbsurys and bought a packet of dried pasta, some salad, and multiple ready-mixed gin and tonics.  Felt smugly prepared, but then found I had left my phone charging cable behind.

Map of the South Downs Way - 100 miles from Winchester to Eastbourne

Day 1. 19 miles.  Winchester to HMS Mercury (abandoned)
  
Up early, queueing outside the O2 shop to buy a cable, and then set off over the bypass which swept traffic through a huge gash in Twyford Down (remember Swampy and the other tree-dwellers?)   Neat, slightly posh countryside, but when I got to the Cheesefoot Head natural amphitheatre I was confronted by a huge metal barrier and watch-posts, like Stalag Luft 11.  But it was the Boomtown Music Festival, and as everyone else was arriving to have fun, I had to divert through a huge muddy field. 

Then, as forecast, it started to really belt down, a serious thunderstorm.  Resisting the temptation to gloat over the happy campers, I put on full wet-weather gear and so was fine, except for some anxiety about being struck by lightning.   I plodded on looking forward to the pub at Exton after 12 miles.  Then I found it was essentially a smart restaurant, so as I peeled off the wet gear and dripped in in my muddy boots, I expected to be immediately thrown out.   But they were charming, a welcome pint in an armchair, pork scratchings and soup. Got settled in and didn't want to leave.

Old Winchester Hill, with beautiful wild-flower planting by National Trust.

It had stopped raining so I forced myself out of my chair,  got to Old Winchester Hill, and finally struggled up the hill to the Sustainability Centre Hostel.  Then it was back to the hostel routine perfected  on the Camino – into the shower with mucky clothes and wash them and myself at same time, and then collapse onto the bed.  Blessed my foresight in booking a double room to myself, and stocking up on G&Ts.

This is supposed to be a wonderful view

Day 2 17 miles. HMS Mercury to Cocking

Woke to find thick mist. Briefly had a fine view of the A3, but then the mist closed in again. Looked forward to breakfast in the cafe in the Queen Elizabeth Countty Park, but it didn't open for another hour.  So headed into the forest, and got lost.  Spirits dropped.  The guide said ‘great views’, but couldn't see a sausage.

Beacon Hill: 'fine views' are claimed

Listened to Desert Island Discs which raised the mood, but even better spirit-raising when I got to the pub at Cocking by 2.30 and they were open and serving food.  Into a rather smart B&B, and laid waste to the bathroom as usual.  But it was all neat and tidy by the next morning. 

I then found I could not charge my phone even with my new cable, so I had no music, compass, email, watch or camera. Or phone.  Tried to convince myself this was a good thing, as am really too reliant on these things.

Day 3 19 miles, Cocking to Washington

Relieved to find good weather, large breakfast and set off singing and clicking my stick on the ground in an irritatingly cheerful manner.  Beautiful day, and the path turned into a classic Way – on a ridge with great views to the sea on the south and the wooded Sussex weald on the north.  Fine drop almost to sea-level at Amberley – again a welcome pub before slogging back up to the standard 200 metre height.  I knew I had to get a bus at the A24 in Washington, and arrived just to see one go.  Sat by side of road, with no idea what time it was, but enjoying watching cars go past.  Rather sorry that another bus came along within 10 minutes, but went into Worthing.  Worthing has not got a great reputation - someone told me once that they saw a notice in a train toilet saying "Do not flush while in a station", and someone had added underneath "except Worthing".  But I had a fine B&B with a sea-view, and found some excellent food.  And used a public phone box for the first time in years. 

Day 4.  14 miles. Washington to Pyecombe
 

Amazingly, got bus and met Steve as arranged at Washington.  Very good to have someone to walk with after 3 days solitary, and we chattered along up to Chanctonbury Ring, which sounds faintly obscene, but is reputed to be seriously haunted.  Some campers had stayed there.

Day 5.  XX miles. Pyecombe to Rodmell

 

Day 6.  XX miles. Rodmell to Eastbourne